Venice the Quiet Side

The Quieter Side of Venice

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Many visitors staying at Lake Garda are naturally reluctant to visit nearby Venice, seeing it as a crowded, noisy city. However, Venice like most cities does have its quieter side to be enjoyed, if you know where to look. Piazza San Marco has all the wonderful main sights including the Basilica and the Doge’s Palace with its associated crowds and queues, but just off the beaten path are some wonderful treasures to discover.

Head for the old area of Castello in Venice to find quiet alleys and squares full of local charm and some of the city’s finest churches. Start at the Molo on the waterfront and cross the Ponte della Paglia with a glimpse of the Bridge of Sighs. Follow signs to Campo San Zaccaria, a much quieter area which leads to the charming quayside of Fondamenta dell’Osmarin. Admire the fine Palazzo Priuli and the domed San Giorgio dei Greci, a lovely Greek Orthodox Church. Continue exploring the area and you will find the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, decorated with a frieze of patron saints by Carpaccio, and further on is the Campo di Santa Maria Formosa, a charming square full of local Venetian life with grand palazzos, market stalls and open air cafés. The 16th century Querini-Stampalia Palace has a delightful gallery of Venetian art with a library, garden and café for a welcome rest.

Another fine area in Venice which is ‘far from the madding crowd’ is Cannaregio, which includes the world’s oldest ghetto, and the peaceful backwaters of the Madonna dell’Orto neighbourhood. Of course it also has its share of fine Gothic and Renaissance churches. Start at the Ghetto Vecchio, close to the railway station, and explore the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, which was a fortified island and a Jewish ghetto in the early 16th century. Head on to the Fonda Menta degli Ormesini, an interesting quayside with local shops and further on, the Casa di Tintoretto. Close by is the Palazzo Mastelli, complete with a surprising relief of a one-legged man with a camel. The lovely Madonna dell’Orto Church can be enjoyed in this peaceful district, complete with oriental campanile, carved portal and richly embellished façade. Inside are some of Tintoretto’s finest paintings and his burial place. Finish the day exploring this quiet area which has some lovely gardens, or follow the canal eastwards for some lovely views of the Lagoon. If you follow the Stada Nova eastwards you will come upon the most lovely palazzo in Venice – the Ca’ d’Oro. Its ornate façade was covered in gold leaf when it was built in 1420, hence its name ‘Golden House’.

You will have passed some lovely quiet cafés and local trattorias along your route which offer an excellent place to dine before heading back to your Lake Garda retreat again.

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